Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Middle Out Woolies - the pattern

NOTE: This pattern is a free pattern for personal use but is not to be sold or used to produce any item for monetry exchange!

Can be found on Ravelry here

So about the pattern.
This pattern is knit from the middle out, firstly we knit from the crotch up then from the legs down.

The sizes are
Small - 30cm waist and rise
medium - 40cm waist and rise
large - 50cm waist and rise
extra large - 60cm waist and rise

The pattern is avaliable with the following variations..
Waist - elastic, and rib
Legs / style - soaker, shorties and longies

Needs
4.5mm circs in 40cm and 30cm
4mm circs in 40cm and 30cm (needed only for ribbed waist and soaker)
Tapestry needle
Stitch holders, stitch holders and stitch markers
Crochet hook

100-200 grams of wool dependent on size and style chosen
non roll or button hole elastic for elastic waists
also a set of digital kitchen scales to weigh wool used would be great

Skills
knit
purl
seed/garter stitch where applicable
decreasing
increasing
short rows
kitchener stitch
crochet provisional cast on

Gauge
20 stitches and 26 rows to 4 inches/10cms

abbreviations:
PMY: place marker on yarn:
there will be four of these placed. they serve to marke the 4 sections when you recapture the stitches from the provisional cast on and split it for the legs and crotch.
Place a removable stitch marker OR piece of scrap yarn onto your working yarn and then continue as instructed keeping marker between the 2 stitches
PMN: place standard stitch marker on needle

CAST ON AND CROTCH
Using contrasting scrap yarn, and the crochet provisional cast on [92-112-132-152] stitches.

Ensuring no twists in the cast on, changing to main colour, begin working in round, in stockingette stitch unless otherwise stated.

ROW1: k1, PMY, PMN, k12, PMY, PMN, k[34-44-54-64], PMY, PMN, k12, PMY, PMN, k[17-22-27-32], PMN. This becomes the start and finish of the rows, there will remain [16-21-27-31] stitches not knit for this round, that is correct.

ROW2 (all even rows): knit till end, slipping all markers on needles.

ROW3: k[17-22-27-32] slip marker, k2tog, k8, sl1, k1, psso, slip marker, k[34-44-54-64], slip marker, k2tog, k8, sl1, k1, psso, slip marker, k[17-22-27-32]

ROW5: k[17-22-27-32] slip marker, k2tog, k6 sl1, k1, psso, slip marker, k[34-44-54-64], slip marker, k2tog, k6 sl1, k1, psso, slip marker, k[17-22-27-32]

ROW7: k[17-22-27-32] slip marker, k2tog, k4 sl1, k1, psso, slip marker, k[34-44-54-64], slip marker, k2tog, k4 sl1, k1, psso, slip marker, k[17-22-27-32]

ROW9: k[17-22-27-32] slip marker, k2tog, k2 sl1, k1, psso, slip marker, k[34-44-54-64], slip marker, k2tog, k2 sl1, k1, psso, slip marker, k[17-22-27-32]

ROW11: k[17-22-27-32] remove marker, k2tog, place marker(centre front), sl1, k1, psso, remove marker, k[34-44-54-64], remove marker, k2tog, place marker(centre back), sl1, k1, psso, remove marker, k[17-22-27-32] leave the marker inplace that has indicated the start and finish of rows, this will continue to be same for the entire body.

leaving [72-92-112-132] stitches.


BODY
This section will knit to the where we start the waist.

All sizes have 5 rows where the shaping is worked. decreases across the front and short rows across the back, I have not written any detail regarding shortrow methods but instead will allow you to just do your own.
The centre front/back markers are not essential but handy when doing shaping to check where you are up to, back more so.

ok lets go..

work [1-2-3-4] rounds

First shaping round:
k[6-9-12-15], k2tog, k[20-24-28-32] sl1,k1, psso, k[29-39-48-58], turn p[10-14-16-20], turn, k to end


work [3-5-7-9] rounds

Second shaping round:
k[6-9-12-15], k2tog, k[18-22-26-30] sl1,k1, psso, k[34-45-56-68], turn p[20-26-32-40], turn, k to end

work [3-5-7-9] rounds

Third shaping round:
k[6-9-12-15], k2tog, k[16-20-24-28] sl1,k1, psso, k[39-52-65-78], turn p[30-40-50-60], turn, k to end

work [3-5-7-9] rounds

Forth shaping round:
k[6-9-12-15], k2tog, k[14-18-22-26] sl1,k1, psso, k[34-45-56-68], turn p[20-26-32-40], turn, k to end

work [3-5-7-9] rounds

Fifth shaping round:
k[6-9-12-15], k2tog, k[12-16-20-24] sl1,k1, psso, k[29-39-48-58], turn p[10-14-16-20], turn, k to end

work [2-3-4-5] rounds


WAIST BAND

ELASTIC WAIST

knit 8 rows
purl 1 row
knit 8 rows

Bind off loosly and whip stitch the band closed, leaving a 1 inch section open for insterting elastic of your choosing.

Alternativily, and my prefered method. when completing the last row, stop 4 stitches prior to the end of the row, cast off 8 stitches, kitchener stitch the lives stitches of the waist band to the inside of the body, This gives a much stetchier finish.

RIB WAIST

for sizes medium and Extra large only
k2tog,k[39-59], k2tog, k to end

change down needle size to 4.0mm or appropriate size

for all sizes.
row 1: *k2,p2* repeat to end

repeat row 1, 4 times

row 9: *k2, yfwd, k2tog* repeat to end

Repeat row 1, 5 more times.

bind off in your prefered stretchy method, double yarn or sewn bind off work well

using your prefered method, create a cord [60-70-80-90] cm long and weave through the waist band


FINISHING THE CROTCH

looking between the start and finish of the provisional cast on, you will see the end of your yarn (not the waste yarn) is looped through the first stitch, pull it out.

the stitches need to captured in 4 different lots, so recapture the stitches grouping them as such

place The 13 stitches between and including the yarn marked stitches(markers were placed in the first row) which are at the centre back of the body on a stitch holder, the 13 at the front on working needles. (both these lots will become gusset stitches)

place the remaining [33-43-53-63] stitches either side (these will become the leg stitches later) on seperate holders (placing them on waste yarn works best).

Working with the 13 stitches (front gusset stitches) on the working needles, join yarn and work 5 rows in stockingette stitch, begining and ending with purl rows

taking the 13 stithces from the back gusset, using kitchener stitch, join these together, end yarn.

LEGS

SOAKER

Place the held stitches from one side onto a 30cm circular or DPNs in size 4mm. pick up 5 stitches along the side of the gusset, placing a stitch marker after the first 3, this will become the start and finish of your rounds.

work 1 row in stocking stitch.

row 2: k2,p2 to end

repeat row 2 another 11 times

cast off loosly

repeat for second leg.

SHORTIES

Place the held stitches from one side onto a 30cm circular or DPNs in size. pick up 6 stitches along the side of the gusset, placing a stitch marker after the first 3, this will become the start and finish of your rounds.

work in stocking stitch continue till the work measures [5-8-11-14]cm (or personal deisred length of shorties less aprox 3cm)

Begin cuff.

cuff row 1 - k1 *p1, k1* to end
cuff row 2 - *p1, k1* to end

repeat rows 1 and 2, 4 times

cast of loosely.


LONGIES

Place the held stitches from one side onto a 30cm circular or DPNs in size. pick up 6 stitches along the side of the gusset, placing a stitch marker after the first 3, this will become the start and finish of your rounds.

work in stocking stitch continue till the work measures [15-20-25-30]cm (or personal desired length of shorties less aprox 3cm)

Begin cuff.

cuff row 1 - k1 *p1, k1* to end
cuff row 2 - *p1, k1* to end

repeat rows 1 and 2, 4 times

cast of loosely.


FINISHING

run in all threads, add elasstic and cording where needed and wash,block and lanolise.

2 comments:

Tracy said...

Congratulations on getting the pattern out there :) Will pop it on my list of things to do :) SO you made a pile for the new bub yet?

Kebeni said...

nice looking. Going to cast these on this week and will let you know how it goes.